Beyond the Bridge: Discover the Wonders of Deer Isle & Stonington Maine
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To say Deer Isle and Stonington are a Downeast dream isn’t a far stretch, especially since Pulitzer Prize-winning author John Steinbeck wrote that “…the isle is like Avalon, it must disappear when you are not there.”
Steinbeck famously wrote about the enigmatic nature of Deer Isle in his book Travels with Charley in Search of America in 1962. Since then, not much has changed on the island or the Merchant’s Row archipelago that expands beyond the tip of Stonington.
The magical and timeless landscape includes a portal to a side of Acadia National Park that most of the four million annual visitors don’t see.
What is so special beyond that bridge and over the next causeway? Let’s find out!
Where is Deer Isle?
Deer Isle is an island connected to the mainland by roads. It’s also one of those places, as Steinbeck learned, where the melancholy directions of Mainers might include, “You can’t get there from here.”
We’ll help you out. Between Bucksport and Ellsworth, depart Route 1 onto one of several roads that head south on the mainland. Pick your path to Sargeantville and cross over the Deer Isle Bridge to Little Deer Isle, part of the town of Deer Isle. Once you cross the causeway, you’re on Deer Isle.
The town of Deer Isle is centered near Bridge Street, a semi-causeway that takes you to South Deer Isle. Choose from Sunset Road or Deer Isle Road to get to the southern half of the island, which is the town of Stonington. Downtown Stonington is on the southern tip, right off of Main Street. From Route 1 to the south edge of the island, it’s 38 miles.
In the distance is the archipelago of Merchant Row. Just two watery miles beyond that stands Isle au Haut, the tallest in Penobscot Bay.
History of Deer Isle
Deer Isle and Stonington go back time immemorial to the Penobscot people, who relied on the abundant marine and forest resources. European settlers arrived in the 1760s, drawn by the fishing and shipbuilding opportunities.
By the 19th century, granite quarrying had become a significant industry, supplying stone for major U.S. landmarks. Deer Isle Granite helped shape the New York Stock Exchange, Boston’s Museum of Fine Arts, and even the JFK Memorial at Arlington National Cemetery. It was also the inspiration for the name Stonington.
A trip over the Deer Isle Bridge brings you to one of the ancient spots known as the fish-rich Eggemoggin Reach. Before 1939, the only way to reach Little Deer Isle was by boat, which hindered tourism.
The first glance at the island is from the stately bridge, designed so grandly to accommodate the yachts that needed to sail underneath.
While once a collection of different towns and neighborhoods, Deer Isle is both a town and an island. Stonington is an independent town on Deer Isle.
What Is So Special about Deer Isle & Stonington?
Steinbeck lamented about the island, saying, “One doesn’t have to be sensitive to feel the strangeness of Deer Isle.” He was lured there by the recommendation of his agent. “When she speaks of it, she gets an otherworldly look in her eyes and becomes completely inarticulate.”
With a population of less than 3,000 people and just one bridge connecting to the mainland, you don’t accidentally end up on Deer Isle. Visiting here is intentional, if not a guttural pull by the same mystery that brought Steinbeck here. Once on the island, you find the place away from the port crowds and back-to-back beach blankets of literally any other Maine town.
You could also say that Indiana Jones had an easier time finding the Holy Grail, yet a trip here is definitely chosen just as wisely.
Things to Do in Deer Isle & Stonington
In typical “blink and you’ll miss it” fashion, the Deer Isle – Stonington Chamber of Commerce Visitor Center is right at the fork in the road upon crossing the bridge. Like most activities on Deer Isle, the season is mid-June through mid-October.
Arts of Deer Isle
Creativity seems to infuse the air on this inspirational island. The Deer Isle Artisans Market, held one day a week seasonally, brings the best homemade and locally crafted goods to the public.
The membership-driven Deer Isle Artists Association is a collective of about 100 artists who showcase their work throughout the year. You don’t have to be an artist or even live in Maine to join. Patrons are welcome, and the membership is around $60.
If you do have a creative streak, Haystack Mountain School of Crafts on Deer Isle is a renowned international craft school offering summer workshops and community programs. Visitors are welcome to explore the store on campus or schedule a summer tour.
The mystique of Deer Isle extends to Nervous Nellie’s Jams & Jellies, a name that in no way fully explains this eclectic experience. Beyond the store with fresh foods and trinkets, there’s Nellieville, a place that only makes sense in the mind of the creator, Peter Beerits. The Old West Town Sculpture Garden has no beginning, end, or middle. Explore to find your interpretation of this tucked-away Deer Isle treasure.
The Stonington Opera House dates back to 1886, and it still hosts movies, performances, and community events throughout the year.
Lighthouse Trail
Deer Isle shines with lighthouse sightings, either on the island or on nearby islands. You can take the Lighthouse Trail by sea or plane. Plus, several can be spotted from popular scenic drives or hiking spots.
Penobscot Air offers flights to see these eight lighthouses and possibly more, while many tour boats (keep reading) can get you close to some of the more elusive ones. I’ve noted below which ones you can seek out on your own.
- Brown’s Head Light: Boat or plane only.
- Eagle Island Light: View from Dunham Point Road shoreline
- Goose Rocks Light: Book tours through Beacon Preservation.
- Heron Neck Light: Boat or plane only.
- Isle au Haut Light: Most boat tours to Isle au Haut pass by.
- Deer Isle Thorofare Light: View from Sand Beach Road in Stonington.
- Pumpkin Island Light: View from Little Deer Island’s Eggemoggin Road.
- Saddleback Ledge Light: Boat or plane only.
MORE: Check out The Big Guide to Maine Lighthouses
Beaches of Deer Isle/Stonington
Big islands and small islands house hidden beaches off the beaten path. If you just can’t wait to get your toes in the sand, Causeway Beach is right at the end of the road between Little Deer Isle and Deer Isle. Reach Beach sits on sheltered Gray Cove on the east side of the island. Don’t miss a chance to see a sunrise here.
You won’t find the same crowds as Acadia’s Sand Beach at the same-named beach in Stonington, but you’ll still get great views. For what it’s worth, this beach has the same sunset angle as Bass Harbor Lighthouse on Mount Desert Island.
A quick word of advice: Google Maps will show you beaches on remote islands that are just downright alluring. However, many of those locations are hard to get to and in rugged landscapes not suitable for landing at or hiking in.
Nature Preserves
Deer Isle and Stonington are home to beautiful and remote preserves, many of which have shorelines but also include historical sites, woods, hills, and cliffs.
The Maine Coast Heritage Trust oversees Merchant Row, an archipelago off Stonington. The islands are close enough to allow calmer kayaking seas but far enough away to present a great challenge and sense of solitude.
Island Heritage Trust has its home base next to Deer Isle Stonington Historical Society. The properties are throughout the main island and more options extend to the smaller islands.
One of the favorite spots is Barred Island Nature Preserve, which winds through three miles of rugged woods before reaching a sandy beach, with an option to walk the sandbar at Barred Island during low tide. The sandbar is four feet underwater at high tide.
Crockett Cove Woods feels like a place where a hobbit might walk by at any moment, and it is cloaked in moss and fog, adding mystique to the middle of the forest.
See one of the top sources of Deer Isle Granite at Settlement Quarry. While there’s no water access, the giant boulders and carved granite ledges make for an interesting hike. Be sure to pair this trip with a visit to the Deer Isle Granite Museum in Stonington.
One of the best views comes from Pine Hill on Little Deer Isle. The short but intense climb of 300 feet in elevation allows you to see 360° views, including Mount Desert Island, the Deer Isle Bridge, and the causeway.
Kayaking
As noted earlier, kayaking makes for one of the best ways to explore offshore Deer Isle and Stonington. Several rental companies including Sea Kayak Stonington, Osprey’s Echo Sea Kayaking, and Deer Isle Ocean Tours list various tour options, from training sessions to overnight stays on the remote islands.
Fishing
While much about Stonington and Deer Isle feel small, fishing and lobstering are a big deal here. Stonington’s harbor houses the largest lobster fleet in Maine. Eggemoggin means “fish weir place” in Abenaki, showcasing that fishing was a way of life going back thousands of years.
Whether you want to fish from the shore or take a charter boat, be sure to get a Maine fishing license. All the resources you need to plan a fishing trip are here.
Even if you’re not heading out on the water, the Maine Center for Coastal Fisheries in Stonington is a must-see for any angler.
Clamming
Get your hands dirty with some classic clamming in Deer Isle and Stonington. The island’s tidal flats, particularly around Reach Beach and Causeway Beach, are prime spots for digging soft-shell clams at low tide.
Clammers can explore the muddy shores using a rake and bucket to uncover these tasty treasures. A recreational clamming license is required in both the town of Deer Isle and Stonington. A three-day pass costs around $20.
Acadia National Park’s Isle au Haut
Isle au Haut was named by explorer Samuel Champlain in 1604, meaning the High Island. A ferry ride from Stonington takes you to the island, where half of the 12 square miles was gifted to Acadia National Park.
Duck Harbor Campground, one of four in Acadia, is open from mid-June through September. Pets are not allowed at this campground.
The beauty of visiting Isle au Haut is that you’ll likely have 20+ miles of wooded, beached, and cliffside trails to yourself. If you’re traveling throughout the region, it’s helpful to know that the Acadia National Park standard pass is valid for seven days.
Boat Tours
The boat tours aren’t just to go back and forth from Isle au Haut to Stonington. Choose from the seasonal lighthouse, puffin, or scenic harbor tours.
Take the mail boat aboard The Katherine to island hop around Penobscot Bay. The trip runs for two hours with amazing views of the shore and wildlife sightings.
Spend Delightful Days on Deer Isle in Maine
In addition to the things to do in Deer Isle and Stonington, there are also seasonal shifts. Wild blueberries grow in low brush in late summer, and the leaves start to change in October, with peak leaf-peeping season around the third week.
No matter what else you do during your visit to Deer Isle, one of the quintessential things is to buy a fresh lobster right from the boat at the Lobster Co-op. You can’t get more Maine than that!